![]() That snap connector is common to both (and only) the brake switch and the reverse switch.OK So here goes. That's why I wondered if the reverse lights worked. Replace the snap connector or jump it out to test. You may find that there is voltage on one side but not the other. Stick your meter lead into each side of the snap connector and mash the brakes. If it's there, then find that snap connector. mash the brakes while you check for voltage. Or, you can start with the green wire right at the fuse block. This may not be the problem but has to be eliminated before you can move down the rest of the circuit. But, when the lights start drawing current the corroded or broken snap connector acts like a resistor and the voltage drops to nothing so the brake lights won't light. What happens is this: when the brake lights are not on, that is, not drawing current, you can measure the voltage on the green wire and get 12 volts. They get old and don't make good contact. It's a rubber covered-looking thing and should physically be near the fuse block. That is a snap connector, where two bullets are connected together. You'll see that there is a small rectangle in line. Follow the green wire back to the fuse block. Find #18, the brake switch and #49 the reverse switch. The thing that gets people off on a goose chase is not knowing how to decide what is happening with the circuit. I need to quit printing this BBS off and sharing with her.Īny help? Or it's going to a shop to fix it (and they want $200 for U-Joints.are they really that hard to do?) and then to E-Bay. Think Chris' tales with his car spooked mine. Just at wits end since I am not having any luck with this car at all. I did replace the voltage stabilzer (GRRR) and the headlight switch this a.m. Maybe the hazard switch? Hazards work fine, but there is the only green/purple wires I can find. I am going to try and fabricate a jump to just run from the fuse to the back with some long wire to try and rule out (or in) the harness.īUT: What the he**! The brake lights worked fine before I replaced the engine and re-did the interior tub. Shouldn't this be a simple circuit? Diagrams I have show a relay thingy.whats' that there for? What is it? Traced the wiring harness from the fuse block all the way to the back.with the exeption of the seat/handrake wires, nothing appears to split off. I took the fuse box off and scrubbed clean with rubbing alcohol and small brushes. I have two black/white bullet wires hanging out in the open (and ones HOT! amazing no fuse broke). Brake pressure switch was never plugged in. AND the deadmans button thingy under the passenger seat.what is that? Wires NOT plugged in: Handbrake warning and seatbelt warning. Just wanted to see if I could interrupt the circuits in the back to rule out the lights. Unplugged the wires to the brake lights (green/purple) - try one it grounds. So obviously something in the green/purple wire is grounding and taking the circuit. When plug in the other wire (green/purple), the switch is no longer hot. ![]() Switch reads hot when plugged to solid green wire. Spent all day working on the wiring yesterday and a good spell today. It just seems to not want to move and may end up a planter soon!
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